The Halloween Alternative

Traditionally, Poles don't do Halloween. Sure, the Americanism is creeping in and there's random costume parties and jack o' lanterns around, but it's not widely embraced. Instead, All Saints Day is a nationally celebrated holiday. This holiday is something that is very specific to Poland and a few other Eastern European countries. I made sure to take it all in--who knows if there will ever be the opportunity to experience this again.

In Poland, All Saints Day means everyone goes to the cemeteries to honor the dead by cleaning graves and leaving flowers and candles. It's a very family-oriented holiday (all of my Polish friends went home for the occasion), so my plan was to observe the atmosphere of the whole ordeal.

My dorm is about a mile from the largest cemetery in the city. As I mentioned in my last blog post, for several days there were extra buses and trams to this side of the city. I usually run through the cemetery on Sunday mornings, but yesterday I got up a little earlier than normal, thinking I could beat the bulk of the crowd (I really didn't want to offend anyone with my jogging). Wrong--at 8:00am, the place was a zoo. I went home, showered, and headed back out with my camera. Though, I did leave my bike at home, knowing that it would make it more difficult to navigate the crowds.

I took the back road to the cemetery. Cars were parked along side the road for at least a half-mile. There were actually taxis taking people out here.
And the crowds begin.
It was a really nice day to be out and about--admittedly, I spent the entire day bouncing from one cemetery to another. But like I said, this was really a once-in-an-American's-lifetime experience.
Porta-potties were brought in for the occasion (this lady looks very suspicious of the hole thing--I don't think she trusts portable toilets.). In the background, there is also a "trash bin" of sorts where all the dead flowers and burnt-out candles end up.This cemetery is probably five miles around--and the whole place looked like this.
As I was wandering about, I saw an older woman (probably in her 80s) carrying two sacks of candles. She would stop momentarily, set down her bags, and try to catch her breath. So, in my broken Polish, I offered to carry her things. Her name was Eilena...I think. I mostly called her "pani," Polish for "madam." I followed her to her husband and in-law's graves, and helped her sweep the leaves from the stones, dispose of the old candles, and light the new ones. She told me some simple things about her family, and I tried to explain who I am and why I was there. She gave me a piece of toffee, and we sat together for awhile, watching the activities around us. Eventually, I carried her other two candles to another part of the cemetery where her friends were waiting. She introduced me, I handed off her things, said goodbye, and went on my merry way. This 40 minute period was by far the best part of my day.The military section--every stone had a candle.
I left the cemetery through the main entrance. Usually in order to leave, one has to go down a flight of stairs and through a small tunnel that runs under the train tracks. However on All Saints Day, the police close the train tracks and everyone just walks across.
Ulica Warszawska became a massive parking lot.Outside the cemetery, there were booths selling everything from ginger bread to flowers and candles to full meals. I had a ginger bread cookie in the shape of a kitty--twas quite tasty.
After leaving the big cemetery and the crowds, I hopped on my bike and rode to the Cytadela Park. I stopped at a clergy cemetery on the way, just because the atmosphere and the lighting remind me of the movie Hocus Pocus.
Cooperative Professor Mike had advised me to venture out at night, just to see all the lights. So, I wandered the Cytadela at dusk. (Note: my camera doesn't do the scene justice.)
The whole scene looked as though red, blue, green, and white Christmas lights were scattered across the hills. It was absolutely beautiful. I would have stayed longer...but I lost feeling in my toes.
When Halloween causes traffic jams, I'll at least consider it to be an equivalent holiday. Until then, I will remain a fan of All Saints.